Shooting Heads Go The Distance
How does a shooting head work, what is it for, and how easy is it to use?
A shooting head is a fly line with an exaggerated profile. It consists of a head length that is one size heavier than the rod’s AFTM rating (for example if you have a 7wt rod you should use an 8wt shooting head). This head length is connected to a very much thinner running line.
The shooting head will allow you to cast much longer distances with the minimum of effort, so they are especially useful for those anglers who suffer with tennis elbow, struggle to load the rod easily or when you just want maximum distance in difficult conditions i.e. high winds.
However presentation is compromised (especially when striving for distance) and it is not advisable to use teams of flies when fishing this type of line (two flies maximum in my opinion).
Shooting heads are simple to make. Cast the line to see how much you can aerialise easily. Mark the line at this ‘loading’ point, then add another eight foot (measuring towards the reel end) and cut the line at this point. The head length will vary from 25 to 38 feet depending upon the ability of the angler to aerialise fly line.
Then join the running line (shooting head backing) to the back of the line (where you’ve just cut will now become the front of the line). Then cast this set-up again. If it’s too heavy or you can’t aerialise enough of the head, simply cut off one foot at a time from the thicker front end of the line until it’s custom made to your ability. But remember you want it to be heavier than normal and load the rod quickly and easily so don’t cut back too far.
Finally attach a braided loop and leader and you are ready to fish
When casting simply get the thicker head line just out of, or just in, your rod tip, then let go... don’t try to hold up the thin running line as it will just collapse around your head. Casting with these lines will require some practice but the benefits are worthwhile. Shooting head style lines can now be purchased ‘off the shelf’, for example the Rio Outbound and Airflo 40+ range offer all the advantages of a shooting head, without the hassle of making one yourself (but are costly in comparison).
Off the shelf shooting heads can be used with teams of flies, as the forward profile has been specially designed, but you will loose just a little distance because of this slight change to the taper. Better still they are competition legal, as home-made shooting heads are banned in some matches.
How to Clean and Respool Fly Lines
I’ve had my fly lines for a couple of seasons and would like to clean and respool them. How can I get them back on the spool so they are straight and do not get caught up?
If you have left the backing on the spool and the fly line is still attached to the backing, then getting the line back on the reel shouldn’t be too much of a problem. Just wind the line back on, making sure it is applied in an even layer across the width of the spool.
If you are removing the fly line and all the backing (so you can clean the inside of the spool or check the condition of the backing), then attach your line to a specially designed line winder, an empty hose pipe reel or something similar, and wind the line off onto it.
The line will come off the reel absolutely straight without the line or the backing twisting. This is also a good time to thoroughly check the backing and line for any imperfections or nicks – just run them through your fingers so you can feel where they are.
If you have quite a few lines to clean then it might be worth investing in a purpose-built line winder like the Smart Spooler. This large circular drum will house two fly lines, which can be wound on by hand or by attaching the Spooler to a power drill. The whole drum can then be dunked into a cleaning solution to wash the lines. The Spooler also comes with a rubber winder equipped with nine sets of numbered holes of different diameters and spacings. Fit the winder to the face of the reel, making sure the handle and counterweight poke through the relevant openings in the winder. Then fit the rubber winder to a power drill to make light work of loading up backing and fly line. What used to take an age now takes just seconds!
Top Tip: Cleaning fly lines
Add just a drop of washing-up liquid to a bowl of warm water. Pull the line from the reel, drop straight into the bowl and leave to soak for five or 10 minutes. Then run the line through a clean towel to take off any dirt or grease. Once the line is dry you can apply a line conditioner (Cortland, Scientific Anglers, Rio and Airflo all do them). This will not only condition the line but in the case of floaters will also increase buoyancy.
When cleaning sinking lines I wouldn’t normally use a line dressing, but instead would apply a silicone solvent (produced by Snowbee). This will get rid of any excess grease and allow intermediate and sinking lines to cut through the water’s surface straight away.
Tinheads Hit The Spot
Could you please tell me what Tinheads are?
A Tinhead is a hook that is pre-weighted with a mixture of tin and lead, moulded around the shank just behind the eye of the hook. The advantages are that this ‘blob’ of weight will not come off like shot and it will not move up and down the shank like beads.
Tinhead hooks were the brainwave of Bob Church and Colin Wilson. Jeanette Taylor, a former England ladies international and renowned fly-tyer, then developed the Tinhead fly patterns.
Tinhead hooks were originally available in size 6, 8, and 10 long shank and then a 10 and 12 short shank. A later development was a Tinhead size 10 grub hook with the weight situated in the middle of the hook, ideal for creating grub and shrimp patterns. The last in the series was a size 10 long shank with the weighting at the rear just before the bend of the hook.
There have been literally hundreds of patterns tied on these Tinhead hooks and the possibilities are only limited by the tyer’s imagination. They have been used on small and large stillwaters, fast-running rivers and for targeting coarse fish. One of the most recognisable and used patterns was the Hothead Tadpole with a marabou tail and palmered hackled body. Another favourite was the mini Zonker Tinhead which comprised a rabbit fur wing, grizzle hackle and eyes painted on the Tinhead, incredibly effective in a wide range of colours.
Line Up The Dots
I would like to put section alignment markings on three of my fishing rods. What paint should I use as I do not want to damage the fabric of the rods.
Alignment dots or markers make connecting multi-section fishing rods a breeze, but if your rods don’t already have them it’s easy enough to add your own.
Humbrol enamels, commonly used by coarse anglers to colour the tops of their floats, will do the job. Apply a small blob with a very fine brush, or cut the point off a cocktail stick, dip the now blunt end in the paint and apply a small dot to the fishing rod section.
Makers of custom-built rods often write names on the blanks using a gel-type pen. I use one called Hybrid Gel (available from good stationers) and after letting it dry hard I put a layer of epoxy over the top of the writing. But if it’s just alignment dots then a layer or two of Superglue will do the job.
For more Fishing Tips, visit our Fishing Resources page.
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